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As Pope Leo XIV begins his papacy, many are curious about the meaning behind the papal garments he wears. From his first public appearance on May 14th, Pope Leo XIV’s wardrobe choices have caught the world’s attention-including fashion experts at Vogue. But what exactly does the pope wear, and why? In this article, we’ll explore the names, history, and symbolism of the various papal vestments and accessories. Discover what each piece of the pope’s clothing means, the options available to him, and how his wardrobe choices reflect his role and personality. Whether you’re a Catholic curious about tradition or simply interested in the pope’s attire, this guide will give you everything you need to know about the papal wardrobe.

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Why Does the Pope Wear White?

The names and meanings behind the pope's white garments

White signifies the holiness of the papal office and sets the pope apart as the highest-ranking cleric in the Catholic Church. We typically picture the pope dressed all in white, but do you know what the different white pieces in his wardrobe are?

Zucchetto is the name for the white skullcap that the pope wears atop his head.

• This hat signifies his authority but also his humility and consecration. The pope can wear his zucchetto during Mass, but removes it during the Liturgy of the Eucharist from the Sanctus to the Our Father. The term “zucchetto” means “little pumpkin” in Italian, and its real purpose is practical––to keep the pope’s head warm (particularly back when the clergy had tonsure haircuts).

The White Papal Cassock is the pope’s day-to-day outfit.

• The White Papal Cassock has long sleeves, falls to ankle-length, and traditionally has 33 buttons down the front to represent Christ’s 33 years of life on earth. White became the standard color for papal dress during the thirteenth century, primarily because various Dominicans had been elected pope and chose to continue wearing the white of their order. The white cassock is made primarily of wool to signify the innocence, holiness, and charity of the pope’s role.

A White Fascia is the shiny, wide sash the pope wears above the waist over his cassock.

• The remaining length of both ends extends down on the left, and the bottom edges of the fascia have a gold fringe. According to Catholic News Agency, this sash “represents the pope’s devotion, dedication, and submission to Jesus Christ’s call to serve and look after his Church. The fascia is a symbol of readiness to minister to the people of God.”

The Pellegrina is the white shoulder cape attached to the pope’s cassock and covering the pope’s shoulders.

• It is called a “pellegrina” because it looks like the capes that pilgrims used to wear. You might see the pellegrina billow or flap upwards because of the wind when the Holy Father is outdoors. 

The Pallium, a Latin word that means mantle or cloak, is a white band symbolizing the Pope’s full episcopal authority.

• It rests around the pope’s shoulders and extends down the front and back with two pendants. Newly-appointed metropolitan archbishops receive a pallium from the pope that signifies their share in his authority, and these palliums are traditionally made with wool that comes from lambs blessed on the feast of St. Agnes. The pallium is woven with six crosses (on the papal pallium these are red, but on an archbishop’s are black), and three of the crosses (on the front, back, and left shoulder) of the pope’s pallium contain a little pin ( a spinula––a small spine or thorn in Latin) to represent Christ’s wounds.

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Red Used to Be the Papal Color, Not White!

Before white was in papal style, red used to be the distinctive papal color! According to Aleteia, the royal colors of red and purple were the papal colors to symbolize Christ’s suffering, particularly the cloak that was put over him after his scourging (see Matthew 27:28). Each Vicar of Christ is called to lay down his life as he shepherds the flock of those who follow Christ. When we see the pope wearing red, we should be reminded of the majesty, but also the sacrifice that accompanies the papal role.

Over his shoulders, the pope can wear a Red Stole featuring elaborate gold designs depicting the apostles.

• You’ll likely notice the pope wearing this burgundy item over his mozzetta when he first greets the world after being elected (except for Pope Francis, who did not wear it). The stole is a reminder that the pope must lead the Church like Christ the Good Shepherd, sometimes bearing the sheep on his shoulders and always guiding them towards the truth, all the while being gentle and lowly of heart (see Matthew 11:28-30). 

Fancy footwear? You might glimpse the pope wearing bright red loafers! 

• He actually has two different kinds of shoes in this striking color: silk shoes to wear inside the Vatican and leather ones for outside. The color red used to be associated with power and high status (in the ancient world, the red dye used to make “royal purple” came from rare sea snails and was very costly). Papal shoes in this color symbolize martyrdom and the Passion of Christ, showing that the pope is called to follow Christ’s example of sacrifice. Some popes prefer simpler shoes, however: Pope Francis wore simple black, and Pope John Paul II switched to brown loafers later in his papacy.

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The Camauro is a winter hat worn only by the pope, styled as a bonnet made of wool or velvet and trimmed with ermine fur.

• Pope Benedict XVI wore it once early in his papacy to keep his head warm; beginning in the mid-1900s, popes no longer kept this tradition that began in the 12th century. And yes, it does look somewhat like a Santa Claus hat!

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The Saturno or Cappello Romano is a wide, circular-brimmed, summer hat for the pope.

• It is bright red with gold ribbon around the base of the brim and has a band with an elaborate embroidery design where the cap meets the brim. You might remember seeing priests wearing simple saturnos in black “back in the day” or in old movies.

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The Ferraiolo is a floor-length, scarlet red cape made of silk that some popes wear.

• While not all superheroes wear capes, as the saying goes, some actually do! Most recently, Popes John Paul II and Benedict XVI have worn this cape. Here’s Superman––oops, we mean St. John Paul II––rocking his red cape! 

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Dressed to Impress

A few papal garments carry a special splendor and are distinctly noticeable when the Holy Father wears them!

You may recognize the Mitre from seeing your bishop wear his, but the pope wears this episcopal headdress as well!

• Mitres are shaped like tall pointed hats to symbolize the tongues of fire of the Holy Spirit that came upon the apostles at Pentecost. Because bishops (and of course, cardinals and popes) are successors of Christ’s twelve apostles, mitres signify the authority of the episcopal role and its continuity with Christ’s first representatives on earth. Additionally, the two pointed sides of the mitre and the way they come together represent the unity of the Old and New Testaments. The pope may wear a plain linen mitre or a more elegant one made of silk damask, depending on the occasion. 

A Mozzetta is a short, open-front cape covering the shoulders, reaching to the elbows, buttoned up in the front, and with a miniature hood attached.

• Cardinals wear it in scarlet, bishops wear it in the color amaranth, and other religious prelates like abbots, canons, and superiors wear it in black. Only the pope wears it in white or deep red. There are five different types of papal mozzettas: the summer mozzetta of red satin, the winter mozzetta in red velvet trimmed with white ermine fur, the red cloth mozzetta for Advent and Lent, the red serge mozzetta to be worn for Masses for the deceased, and the Paschal mozzetta of white damask silk and white fur for the Easter season. When Pope Leo XIV appeared on the balcony (loggia) of St. Peter’s Basilica right after being elected, he wore a red satin mozzetta.

The Triregnum or Papal Tiara was worn by popes from as early as the 8th century until the middle of the 20th century.

• Pope Paul VI was the last pope to wear the triregnum, which received its name because it has three tiers of crowns made of silver or gold and adorned with diadems. This fancy piece of headgear is shaped like a beehive, ending with a round tapered end called an ogive and topped by a cross. Today, the miter is worn instead of the triregnum on solemn or ceremonial occasions. 

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Apostolic Accessories 

Other items worn by the pope indicate his office and the consecration he has received. There are two pieces of episcopal insignia that the pope wears on his person at all times:

A Pectoral Cross is worn by bishops, cardinals, abbots, and of course, the Holy Father.

• It is called a “pectoral” cross because it is worn near the pectoral muscle that protects the heart. In keeping with this guideline of wearing it near the heart, some pontiffs wear the pectoral cross with the gold cord pinned near one of the buttons on their cassock so that the chain falls in two loops on their chest and the cross sits higher (Pope John Paul II’s preferred look). Other popes wear the chain straight down their chest (this was how Pope Francis wore his). Each pope chooses his own unique pectoral cross. 

The Fisherman’s Ring is a gold signet ring that each new pope receives during the solemn Mass for his election to symbolize his authority.

• The ring is engraved with the pontiff’s name and an image of St. Peter. Until 1842, popes would use their fisherman’s ring to seal private correspondences and certain documents of the Holy See. When a pope dies, his fisherman’s ring is destroyed by the camerlengo (the cardinal in the papal household who manages the Holy See until a new pope is elected). The ring is smashed with a hammer in the presence of all the Cardinals to prevent forgery and symbolize that this pope’s authority has ended.

Image Credit: Aleteia, Yousuf Karsh/Fotografia Felici

Different Fashion Tastes in the Papacy

While the collection of garments for the Holy Father is quite standard, with many items that are customary, there is enough variety of choice and purpose for a pontiff to make unique decisions and allow some personal style to emerge. We’ve seen some trends go and come from pontiff to pontiff; here are some noticeable differences in the fashion choices of the six most recent popes.

Pope Paul VI: Most notably, St. Paul VI was the last pope to have a coronation. He wore the papal tiara/triregnum at the start of his papacy, but later auctioned his ceremonial crown and gave the proceeds to the poor.

Pope John Paul I: Even though his reign lasted only a short 33 days, Pope John Paul I did wear some of the typical red papal garb, including the mozzetta. Additionally, he is known as “the smiling pope,” because he exemplified great joy––the most important and memorable style choice of all!

Pope John Paul II: He was not one for elaborate adornments, but he did like to wear the striking papal red from time to time. As far as shoes, Pope John Paul II wore the ruby red slippers at the start of his papacy, but later moved to brown loafers. This beloved “papa” also had some unique and memorable outfits from a few precious off-the-clock moments, like the white coat and flat cap he wore when hiking in the Alps or the warm outdoorsman outfit from when he secretly stole off to ski!

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Pope Benedict XVI: The pope of tradition and the liturgy reintroduced several ceremonial pieces that had fallen into disuse. He liked to sport the red papal shoes and hats. He often chose regal liturgical vestments as a reminder that we were meant to worship God and his splendor with great honor, opting for the traditional forms of various vestments, including the pallium.

Pope Francis: He was the pope of simplicity and humble garb, preferring an unassuming iron pectoral cross and a pair of plain black shoes. (EWTN reports that he said in his autobiography, “I have orthopedic shoes; I’m rather flat-footed.”) From his very first emergence as pope, he avoided the red velvet mozzetta and opted for an unadorned white cassock.

Pope Leo XIV: For his first moment of greeting on the balcony of St. Peter’s Basilica, Pope Leo XIV appeared in the red mozzetta and ornate red stole (unlike Pope Francis). Yet at his first Mass, he wore black shoes like his immediate predecessor. It appears that his decisions in papal garb communicate a return to tradition amid modernity, but as his pontificate continues, we will have more opportunities to notice his preferences.